Fabien's Profile
Date of birth : April 1991Current Status : Headroutesetter at Campus Boulderhalle in Aachen; self-employed routesetter as ‘Syked! Routesetting’
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What kind of climbing do you usually do ?
I enjoy every kind of climbing, especially when I can learn more about movement from the variety of moves of the boulder or route that I am trying to climb.
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What gives you the most fun when route setting?
To challenge the climbers and to see the progression they make while figuring out the easiest and smoothest beta and then finally being able to climb the problem.
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What angle of wall do you prefer to set on?
My favorite type of walls are slabs, vertical walls and slightly overhanging stuff. I prefer straight walls that I can shape to my needs with wooden volumes.
But also horizontal wall formations are nice to set on, because who doesn’t like a complex, powerful roof-boulder?
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What style of climbing do you prefer to set?
I have no preferred setting style; I like dynamic ‘New School’ bouldering as well as powerful climbing on small edges or fingerpockets. For a regular gym-business I like to set something from every category per setting-session, so that every customer can find something that suits their climbing style.
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How do you make a route awesome?
By adding the right amount of spicy trickiness and or flow so that you feel good while climbing the problem, even when you have to move through some uncomfortable positions.
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What is the important thing for you when choosing climbing holds?
Making good holds explores one of the artistic aspects of climbing; the holds must attract visually, the prehension should feel right, and the grain must caress your skin, ow yeah!
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Can you give us your view of the trend towards volumes in wood and fiberglass?
The big variety of volumes you can get nowadays adds so many possibilities in creating movements and ads much style to the appearance of a wall and so I like the trend of more and more volumes. BUT to give everybody the best experience they can get in your gym you need small and uncomfortable old-school holds as well!
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Can you give us your opinion on the evolution of indoor climbing?
What has been small training rooms for those who wanted to get more powerful during the off-season has now become very large climbing gyms for everyone from families with small children to elite athletes – everything under one roof. I like seeing the sport grow more and more but we must not forget why we love this sport: The feeling of a strong community of friendly people you can have the fun of your lifetime with, where everybody is welcome and where you always like to come back to !
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Do international competitions influence your choice of holds or volumes?
No, most of the new shapes are already known from exhibitions but nonetheless I like getting new inspiration for what is possible with all the new shapes by watching the worldcups.